Getting My Trip Started
Heard folks raving about Shams Azar Qazvin on travel forums for months. Finally booked a bus ticket last Tuesday – took three hours from Tehran with way too many stops. By noon I stumbled off with my backpack, sweating buckets in the summer heat.

First Stops Around Town
Dumped my stuff at this cheap hostel near Aminiha Hosseiniyeh. That old building? Wild! Took about fifty photos of the stained glass and mirror work. A local vendor shoved some pistachio halva in my hand saying “try try!” – ended up buying two boxes.
Chehel Sotoun Palace Surprise
Walked to Chehel Sotoun around 2PM. Guards almost didn’t let me in cause my shoulders weren’t covered – had to wrap my scarf weirdly. Totally worth it though. Those 17th-century frescoes? Blew my mind. Sat in the garden sketching while this cat kept trying to climb my lap.
Food Adventures Gone Wrong
Asked for restaurant recommendations. Guy pointed me to this alley joint shouting “best Dizi in town!” That lamb stew wrecked my stomach later. Pro tip: carry antacids. Still ate the crunchy tahdig part like a champ.
Unexpected Mosque Moment
Got lost near Jameh Mosque around sunset. Heard singing and followed it – turned out to be Sufi chanting practice. They waved me in saying “join join!” Never danced barefoot on Persian rugs before. Felt like time traveling.
Final Thoughts Crawling Home
Next morning I:

- Tried bargaining at Qeisarieh Bazaar – failed miserably
- Drank sugary tea until my teeth hurt
- Missed my return bus watching old men play backgammon
Caught the night bus smelling like rosewater and regret. Would I go back? Hell yes – but bringing diarrhea pills next time.