Alright, so the other day, I finally got around to cleaning my motorcycle chain. It was looking pretty grimy, honestly. You know how it gets, all full of road dirt and old lube.

Getting Started
First thing I did was get the bike up on its center stand. If you don’t have one, a paddock stand works too. You just need that rear wheel free to spin, makes the whole thing way easier. Put down some old cardboard underneath because this job gets messy, trust me.
Then, I gathered my stuff. Here’s what I used:
- Chain cleaner: Just a regular spray can type.
- Brushes: I got one of those three-sided grunge brushes, and an old toothbrush for tricky spots.
- Rags: Lots of ’em. Old t-shirts work great.
- Chain lube: The kind I like for my riding conditions.
- Gloves: Nitrile gloves are good, keeps the black gunk off your hands.
The Dirty Work
Okay, gloves on. I grabbed the chain cleaner and just started spraying it directly onto the chain. Rotated the wheel slowly by hand (never with the engine on, obviously) to get the cleaner all over it, top, bottom, inside, outside. Let it sit for a few minutes, like the can said, to loosen up all that nasty stuff.
Next came the scrubbing. I took that grunge brush and went at it. Moved the wheel bit by bit, scrubbing each section. That three-sided brush is pretty handy, gets most angles at once. For the really stubborn bits or tight areas around the sprockets, I used the old toothbrush. You gotta put some elbow grease into it, especially if it’s been a while.
Man, the black gunk that came off was something else. The cardboard underneath caught most of it. Wiped the chain down with a rag, sprayed a bit more cleaner on the really bad spots, scrubbed again. Did this cycle maybe twice until it looked way better.

Drying and Lubing
After the cleaning, I took a clean rag and wiped the chain down thoroughly to get rid of any leftover cleaner and moisture. Some folks rinse with water, but I usually just wipe it really well. Then I let it air dry for maybe 10-15 minutes just to be sure.
Time for the lube. Grabbed the chain lube spray can. The key here is to get the lube on the inside run of the chain, specifically onto the rollers and the O-rings (if you have an O-ring chain). I aimed the nozzle at the inside plates, right where they meet the rollers. Spun the wheel slowly by hand again, applying a thin, even coat all the way around. Did a pass on the outside too, just for good measure and rust prevention, but the inside is where it really counts for lubrication.
Finishing Up
Once lubed, I let it sit for a bit – maybe 15-30 minutes. This helps the lube penetrate and the carrier solvents evaporate, so it doesn’t just fling off everywhere on the first ride. After waiting, I took another clean rag and gently wiped off any excess lube from the outside plates. You don’t want too much on there, it just attracts more dirt.
Cleaned up my mess, threw away the dirty rags and cardboard. Job done. The chain looked almost new, spun freely, and the bike felt smoother on the next ride. Definitely worth doing regularly.